|Bubble Bath 4×4.5 Dry Point Engraving (Artist’s Proof) with Watercolor|
|Adding pigment (in this case, watercolor) to the proof print
helps me see where I need to adjust tones (darks and lights)
on the plate before printing the edition.
Printing Press Options
|After going through my press, pulling a proof (test) print|
|After the plate is inked and wiped, you can see where the engraved lines hold ink.|
|Wiping the plate with crumpled, soft newsprint|
|Mixing the two inks 50-50.|
Drypoint Ink Mix Recipe
I read an article (here) about a lovely blend of two inks perfectly suited
for dry point engraving, so I ordered the inks (below) and this was my first use of them.
I’m happy to report that they worked very well.
|After a few test-prints, more engraving to hold ink & darken areas of the print.|
|Engraving little canyons into the plexiglass to hold ink, using a sharp point
(an etching needle).
|A sketch done with a sharpie marker – loose and
not too detailed. More of a map than a sketch.
Plexiglass for a Drypoint Print
Here is a tutorial video demonstrating how to bevel you plexiglass plate, using a rasp and then a sanding block. By angling the straight edge that was snapped off in the cutting process, you will ensure that you’re sharp edges don’t cut your printmaking paper under the pressure of the your press. You can read more about the process of preparing a plexiglass plate in this post.
|Cutting plexiglass in the studio|
Have you made a drypoint before?
So, there you have it. Step by step photos of the process to create a drypoint engraving from acrylic or plexiglass (also called perspex in other parts of the world. Have you ever made a drypoint from traditional copper plate? If you know any resources that would be helpful, please leave details in the comments so we ca all get better at printmaking together.
Thanks for stopping by and I’ll see you in the next post!
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